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GENERAL FAQs -
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How do I determine which loan, line of credit or mortgage product will meet my needs? A home financial specialist can explain the many programs available and help you determine what's right for you.
How much money can I borrow? Lenders
use specific criteria to determine if you qualify for a loan and the
amount you can qualify for. You can use our calculator tools to
determine whether you can qualify for a loan, the types of loan
products that are best for you, and many other things. We
allow you to apply and get pre-approved right here online - it's fast,
easy, and free (There are no charges for an application fee). I have bad credit. Can I still get a loan? A
less-than-perfect credit history doesn't have to stand in your way of
reaching your homeownership goals. We have helped thousands of
individuals move beyond credit challenges into homes of their own. What if I want to talk to a loan agent? You can talk to a home financial specialist at any time by calling (866) 620-9147
. Why is the loan-to-value ratio (LTV) important and how do I calculate my LTV? The
loan-to-value ratio (or LTV) is one of the most important factors in
your loan process. It is used to determine the limits within which your
housing and debt ratios must fall for your loan to be approved. It can
also determine which fees you will be charged for your loan and the
amount of these fees. It will also determine whether you must pay
Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) and use an impound/escrow account. Your
loan-to-value ratio (LTV) is simply the amount you are borrowing
divided by the value of the subject property you are purchasing or
refinancing. This gives you a simple ratio. For example, a house valued
at $100,000 which you intend to purchase with an $80,000 loan (and a
$20,000 down payment of your own cash) is said to have an LTV of 80
percent - that is, the loan represents 80 percent of the value of the
house. What happens after I apply for a loan online? Our
home financial specialist will confirm the information on your application and will
contact you. He or she will then turn the application over to a loan
processor, who will monitor the progress of your application until
closing.
Once you submit the application, your loan will immediately
begin the underwriting process. In most cases we will deliver your
credit decision within 24 hours. Meanwhile your home financial specialist will
contact you within one hour to answer any questions. How do I receive and sign my loan documents? After
you complete your application with a home financial specialist, we will
provide you with a package in one of three ways: via e-mail, fax,
or via express mail. This package will contain
your loan application and disclosure documents. How quickly can I get a loan approved? Loan
approval can come as quickly as within 24 hours. The average time for
closing a loan varies, but generally loans close within 20 to 25
business days. What if I have trouble filling out a section of the online application? You can talk to a home financial specialist at any time by calling (866) 620-9147. Can I change my application after I've submitted it? Yes, just talk to your home financial specialist. What kind of information do I need to provide to qualify for a loan? You
will need to provide credit, income, asset, and liability information,
including your income, residence, and personal identification. That
information will include:
- Your employment and salary history
for the past two years, addresses of your residences for the past two
years (as well as landlords names and phone numbers if you rented),
your social security number and that of your co-borrower(s)
- Your
current income including base salary, any commissions and bonuses or
dividends. (income from alimony, child support or separate maintenance
payment need not be revealed if you prefer)
- The numbers and locations of your bank accounts
- Your bank or investment account numbers, balances, and names of the institutions holding them
You can save time and expedite your application by collecting all this before you begin the process.What if I'm self-employed or my co-borrower is? Do we still qualify for a loan? We
typically provide loans to individuals who are self-employed. If you are
self-employed or compensated by commissions, you will need to supply
your federal tax returns for the two most recent years you filed. What kind of loan fees will I have to pay? There
are no fees to apply. There may be fees due at loan closing and/or
points added on to the loan, depending on the type of loan you choose.
Are there extra fees for getting a loan online? Our fees are the same regardless of application method. What are points and how many do I have to pay? Generally
speaking, points are fees added onto loans. One point is equal to 1
percent of your loan amount. Points are paid when the loan closes, not
at the time you apply for the loan.
When you get a loan, you'll
have the opportunity to "buy down" the interest rate by paying discount
points - essentially paying a fee to lower your interest rate. By
lowering your interest rate, you will be lowering your monthly payment
and the amount of interest you'll be paying over the life of the loan.
You pay more at the beginning of your loan but will save money in the
long run. Keep this in mind as you determine whether to pay points.
Paying
points requires a higher immediate expenditure, so it may not be for
you. In that case, let the loan do its job - allowing you to borrow the
money you need and pay it back as fast as you can. Should I roll the fees into my loan? Again,
the choice basically comes down to "pay now" or "pay later." If you
have the funds now, it makes sense to cover the expenses out-of-pocket
and save through lower loan payments and interest costs on a smaller
loan. On the other hand, if your budget is currently tight, rolling in
the costs with your loan amount makes sense because it allows you to
get the loan without immediate expense.
We give you
the option of rolling these funds into your loan amount. This allows
you to get your loan with no out-of-pocket expense, but your loan
amount will be slightly higher. The alternative to rolling the costs
into your loan is to provide these funds yourself when the loan closes.
You'll be borrowing a smaller loan than with a roll-in, but you will
incur immediate out-of-pocket expenses. Will the interest on my loan or line of credit be tax deductible? The
interest you pay on a mortgage is usually tax deductible. Please
consult your tax preparer for specifics of how your taxes will be
affected. Interest on credit cards or automobile loans is not normally
tax deductible.
CREDIT FAQs
What is a FICO score? Developed
by Fair Issac & Co., a FICO is a credit score that is used to
determine the likelihood that credit users will pay their bills. This
credit score is expressed as a single number; the higher the
number, the better the score. Three nationwide credit
bureaus--Experian, Trans Union, and Equifax calculate consumer FICO
scores.
Your credit scores are determined by these bureaus after they analyze your credit history and consider such factors as:
- The amount of time credit has been established
- The amount of credit available versus the amount of credit used
- Length of time at present residence
- Employment history
- Late payments
- Negative credit information such as bankruptcies, charge-offs, or referrals to collection agencies
Some lenders look at your score from only one bureau, others look at all and pick the middle of the credit bureau scores.Why isn't my credit score higher? Below are the top ten most frequently given score reasons for a less than desirable score. 1. Serious delinquency 2. Serious delinquency, and public record or collection filed 3. Derogatory public record or collection filed 4. Time since delinquency is too recent or unknown 5. Level of delinquency on accounts 6. Number of accounts with delinquency 7. Amount owed on accounts 8. Proportion of balances to credit limits on revolving accounts is too high 9. Length of time accounts have been established 10. Too many accounts with balances Does my income affect my credit score? Income
might affect your ability to get a loan, but it does not affect your
credit score. Only your credit history such as timely payments and
how much you owe affects your score. Regardless of income, if you
manage your debt responsibly, you can have a high score. Will my FICO score drop if I order my credit report? Self-inquiries
do not affect your score, as long as you order your credit report
directly from the credit reporting agencies, or through an organization
authorized to provide credit reports to consumers. It's a good idea to
check your credit report once a year. Is credit scoring discriminatory? Scoring
considers only credit-related information. Factors like gender, race,
nationality, and marital status are not included. The Equal Credit
Opportunity Act (ECOA) prohibits lenders from considering this type of
information when issuing credit. Because the credit score is
mathematically calculated, it treats all borrowers the same. How can I increase my FICO score? Increasing
your credit score isn't an overnight process, but here are some tips on
how to improve your score over a period of time:
1. Pay your bills on time. Late payments and collections can have a serious impact on your score 2. Do not apply for credit frequently. Having a large number of inquiries on your credit report can worsen your score 3.
Reduce your credit-card balances. If you are "maxed" out on your credit
cards, this will affect your credit score negatively 4. If you have limited credit, obtain additional credit. Not having sufficient credit can negatively impact your score 5.
Correct any errors on your report by reporting them to the credit
bureau. The three major bureaus in the U.S., Equifax (1-800-685-1111),
Trans Union (1-800-916-8800) and Experian (1-888-397-3742) all have
procedures for correcting information promptly
HOME PURCHASE
FAQs
What is the minimum down payment I must have? We offer loan products with as little as zero percent down. Can I apply for a purchase loan before I find a property? Yes, in fact, most buyers prefer that you at least be pre-qualified for a home loan and being pre-approved is even better. What is the difference between being pre-qualified for a loan and being pre-approved? Imagine you're a seller with multiple purchase offers. Let's consider the type of buyers you may be dealing with:
Buyer
One is neither pre-qualified nor pre-approved. This buyer provides no
evidence of being able to afford to purchase your property. You may
wonder how serious they are.
Buyer Two is pre-qualified. This
buyer has met with a mortgage broker (or lender) and provided that
broker with general information regarding income, expenses, assets and
liabilities. The broker may also have seen a credit report. The buyer
gives you a letter from the broker stating an opinion about what the
buyer can afford.
Buyer Three is pre-approved. This buyer has
completed a loan application, providing a broker or lender with written
evidence of income, expenses, assets, liabilities and credit. All
information has been verified by a lender. As a result, much of the
paperwork for this buyer's loan has been completed. This buyer will
probably be able to close quickly. You have been provided with a letter
(pre-approval certificate) from the lender. You're as certain as
possible that this buyer can close.
As a potential buyer, you
can see that being pre-approved will inspire the seller with the most
confidence and give the buyer the best chance of getting an offer
accepted. We recommend that you apply for pre-approval. A
pre-approval will review your financial situation to determine if you
are likely to qualify based on the estimated loan amount and purchase
price information that you provide in your application. A pre-approval
gives you greater flexibility and leverage while you conduct your home
search. How are interest rates set? The
general interest rate level in the economy is determined by the Federal
Reserve Board, degrees of inflation, demand for borrowing money, the
stock market, and a number of other factors. What is a rate lock? A
rate lock is a written agreement in which we guarantee you a specified
interest rate, provided the loan closes within a set period of time.
You cannot close a mortgage loan without locking in an interest rate.
There are four components to a rate lock: interest rate, loan program,
points, and length of the lock.
The longer the length of the
lock, the higher the points or the interest rate. This is because the
longer the lock, the greater the risk for the lender offering that
lock. After a lock expires, most lenders will let you re-lock at the
higher of the original rate/points or current rate/points. In most
cases you will not get a lower rate if rates drop.
Lenders can
lose money if your lock expires. This is because they are taking a risk
by letting you lock in advance. If rates move higher, they are forced
to give you the original rate at which you locked. Lenders often
protect themselves against rate fluctuations by hedging.
Some
lenders do offer free float-downs-i.e., you may lock the rate initially
and if the rates drop while your loan is in process, you will get the
better rate. However, the free float-down is costly for the lender and
you pay for this option indirectly. What if the rates drop after I've locked my rate? Most
lenders will not budge unless the rates drop substantially (3/8 percent
or more), because it is expensive for them to lock in interest rates.
If lenders let borrowers improve their rate every time the rates
improved, they would spend a lot of time relocking interest rates. Also
they would have to build this option into their rates and borrowers
would wind up paying a higher rate. Is a fixed rate or adjustable rate mortgage (ARM) better? That
depends on your particular financial situation and interest rate
levels. If interest rates are low, many first time home buyers prefer
the safety of a fixed-rate 30-year mortgage since the monthly payments
stay the same for the life of the loan. If interest rates are high,
some buyers prefer an ARM because they have a lower interest rate in
the beginning and these buyers plan to refinance or resell the property
within a few years.
Talk to one of our home financial specialists and find out what's best for you. What is the difference between a jumbo and a conforming loan?
Conforming
loans have a well-established secondary market provided by the two
government sponsored entities, the Federal Home Loan Mortgage
Corporation (Freddie Mac) and Federal National Mortgage Association
(Fannie Mae). Currently the conforming loan limits are as follows (with
the exceptions of Alaska and Hawaii):
- 1 Unit-up to $417,000
- 2 Units-up to $533,850
- 3 Units-up to $645,300
- 4 Units-up to $801,950
A jumbo loan is made for an amount that exceeds
these loan limits.
How much money will I need at closing?
At the least, your loan payment will consist
of the principal and interest for one month.
In some states, you may elect to have your insurance
and taxes prorated and added onto the monthly
cost. In other states, it may be required that
you pay for insurance taxes as part of your
monthly loan payment. This money would be placed
in an impound or escrow account by the lender.
We offer loans with
and without closing costs, depending upon what
type of loan you want and the amount of money
you are borrowing.
When should I look for insurance for
my home?
Start looking for home owner's insurance as
soon as your offer has been accepted. Waiting
too long could delay your loan or mean that
you have to settle for less than the best insurance
rates.
What is Private Mortgage Insurance
(PMI)? Can I get rid of the PMI on my loan?
PMI is normally required when you buy
a home with less than 20 percent down. Mortgage
insurance is a type of guarantee that helps
protect lenders against the costs of foreclosure.
This insurance protection is provided by private
mortgage insurance companies to protect the
lender. It enables lenders to offer loans with
lower down payments. In effect, mortgage insurance
pays the lender a certain percentage of your
original purchase price to cover a lender's
losses in the unfortunate event of foreclosure.
Therefore, without mortgage insurance, you would
need to make a 20 percent down payment in order
to buy a home.
The cost of PMI increases as your down payment
decreases. Example: The cost of PMI on a 10
percent down payment is less than the cost of
PMI on a 5 percent down payment. Your PMI premium
is normally added to your monthly mortgage payment.
Federal law requires PMI to be cancelled under
certain circumstances, and Fannie Mae guidelines
provide for cancellation of PMI in additional
situations if the loan is owned by Fannie Mae.
In general, PMI for a loan originated on or
after July 29, 1999, which is secured by the
borrower's one-family principal residence or
second home will be cancelled at the borrower's
request when the loan-to-value ratio (LTV) reaches
80 percent based on the value of the home at
loan origination.
What is an escrow or impound account?
An escrow or impound account is established
to allow the lender to collect property tax
and hazard insurance payments on a monthly basis.
The escrow/impound payment is collected with
your monthly mortgage principal and interest
payment and is calculated by taking your yearly
tax and annual insurance payment and amortizing
it over 12 months, along with a mandatory pad
of at least two additional months worth of payments
for each. The lender will draw from the account
annually to pay the insurance policy and twice
a year when the property tax installments are
due, paying the county tax collector and insurance
company directly. The escrow/impound account
offers a convenient and timely way for borrowers
to ensure that their property tax and insurance
payments are paid.
Can I make extra principal payments
so I can pay off the loan more quickly? Is there
a prepayment fee?
Depending on the loan, and what your state permits,
it is feasible for you to make extra payments
on the loan. Extra payments will have an effect
on the amortization schedule over the remaining
term of your loan.
HOME EQUITY FAQs
How do I know how much equity I have
in my property?
Equity is the value of a homeowner's interest
in real estate. Equity is computed by subtracting
the total of the unpaid mortgage balance and
any outstanding liens or other debts against
the property from the property's fair market
value. A homeowner's equity increases as he
or she pays off his or her mortgage or as the
property appreciates in value. When a mortgage
and all other debts against the property are
paid in full, the homeowner has 100 percent
equity in his or her property.
Must I occupy the residence I'm using
as loan collateral?
You do not have to occupy the residence you
are using as collateral unless you are requesting
a home equity loan or line of credit to access
more than 80% of your available equity
What is the difference between a home
equity loan and a home equity line of credit?
A home equity loan is closed, meaning you get
all your money up front and make payments until
it is paid if full. In many cases, a home equity
loan's interest rate is fixed and your loan
payments stay the same each month over the life
of the loan.
A home equity line of credit (HELOC) is open,
meaning you can get numerous advances for various
amounts as you desire.
If you want a loan for a specific purpose such
as to pay off credit cards and other expenses
or to remodel your home, a home equity loan
will fit your needs.
REFINANCE FAQs
Why would I want to refinance my home?
The most common reason for refinancing is to
save money. Saving money through refinancing
can be achieved in two ways: (1) By obtaining
a lower interest rate that allows one's monthly
mortgage payment to be reduced, or (2) By shortening
the term of the loan, thereby saving money over
the life of the loan.
For example, refinancing from a 30-year loan
to a 15-year loan might result in higher monthly
payments, but the total interest paid during
the life of the loan can be reduced significantly.
Some people refinance to convert their adjustable
loans to fixed loans. The main reason for doing
this is to obtain the stability and the security
of a fixed loan. Fixed loans are very popular
when interest rates are low, whereas adjustable
loans tend to be more popular when rates are
higher. When rates are low, homeowners refinance
to lock in low rates. When rates are high, homeowners
prefer adjustable loans to obtain lower payments.
A third reason why homeowners refinance is to
consolidate debts and replace high-rate loans
with a low-rate mortgage. The loans being consolidated
may include second mortgages, credit lines,
student loans or credit cards. In many cases,
this kind of debt consolidation results in tax
savings, since consumer loans are not tax deductible,
while a mortgage loan is usually tax deductible.
If I refinance, how large an amount
should I borrow?
The amount of the new loan will depend on your
financial needs -- whether you want to borrow
the same amount as the current mortgage or whether
you also want some extra cash to pay off bills,
etc.. In addition, it will depend on your home's
appraised value.
How do I calculate the value of my
property?
Since a mortgage is a loan secured
by a piece of real property, a crucial factor
is in the correct value of the property in question.
The value of your property is its appraised
value OR the amount you pay for the property
(the market value), whichever is lower. In the
initial stages of qualification and approval,
your property's value is understood to be an
estimate. It will be confirmed, if necessary
for your particular loan, by a professional
appraiser hired by us.
Isn't it easier to refinance through
my existing lender?
While your existing lender may not require a
new property appraisal, you may still have most,
if not all, of the closing costs to pay again.
Plus your existing lender may not have the best
rates and programs.
There is a general misconception that it is
easier to work with your current lender. In
most cases, your current lender will require
the same documentation as other companies. This
is because most loans are sold on the secondary
market and have to be approved independently.
Even if you have made all your mortgage payments
on time, your existing lender will still have
to verify assets, liabilities, employment, and
other information all over again.
Is it smarter to wait to refinance
until interest rates drop to at least two percent
below my current interest rate?
Let's say you have a 30-year fixed rate loan.
A loan officer calls up and says you can refinance
to a rate 0.5% lower than your current rate,
and there will be no points, no appraisal fee,
no title or escrow fees. He's offering a No
Cost loan, with a lower rate, lower payment
and your loan balance stays the same.
This is not a scam. Thousands of homeowners
have refinanced using a zero-point/zero-fee
loan. Some refinanced multiple times in a single
year.
This works due to rebate pricing, also known
as yield-spread pricing or service-release premium
pricing. You pay a higher rate in exchange for
cash up front, which is then used to pay the
closing costs. You are financing the closing
costs by paying a higher rate. A zero point
loan, with the borrower paying the closing costs
would be 0.25 to 0.5% lower than the no cost
loan.
On a $200,000 loan, the home financial specialist can offer
you a rate with a cost of -1 point (rebate),
which is a $2,000 credit towards your closing
costs. A mortgage broker can use rebate pricing
to pay for your closing costs and keep the balance
of the rebate as profit. A no cost loan would
need to have enough rebate points to cover all
your closing costs, plus the broker's profit
margin.
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